Vizag to Coorg -
I actually toyed with the idea of converting my '3000km road trip' diary into an online format - but hey even I can't read that drivel. I am still in the process of updating this...a few more days to go :) Btw Coorg-Mercara is gorgeous but best experienced post rains. It was far from cool but it was still fairly lush so we got our diesel’s worth.
22nd Feb (Vizag to Hyd)
• The closer you get to Hyd, the farther away you get acc to the signboards. The irony of it.
• Was floored by the most amazing structure (all bang in the middle of never-ending paddy fields) purportedly schooling India’s future engineers. One was inspired by the Sydney Opera House, I kid you not. The nearest decent theatre is 70 kms away - WOHA, I was never this enthusiastic about an education.
23rd Feb (Vizag to Hyd)
Chilled out with grandparents and forced 'em to consume cheesy pizzas which my grandpa secretly loves though he would never admit it being a staunch (and vocal) sambhar supporter.
24th Feb (Hyd to Mysore)
• Definitely the Reliance Pump stops and their massive A1 eateries. You can bathe there for 15 bucks. Being fairly clean skipped the privilege and stuck to the food - yum and dirt cheap :: HUGE Dosas for 10 bucks!
• NH7 runs through Bangalore, man what a cesspool, spend more than an hour trying to wriggle our way through the largest congestion of dinky cars I have ever seen.
25th Feb (Mysore)
Discover Nalpak and the yummiest coffee we have had so far. Pepe's (that's my friend's sis) authentic Coorgi wedding is mostly underway and OUR CAR is to be the bridal car. Sniff...what an honour. Everyone now knows us as the Vizag folk with 'that' car. The bride looks gorgeous!
HURRAH FOR COORGI WEDDINGS
Coorgi weddings are the way to go - amazing clothes, amazing food and booze unlimited - home made wine, home made Irish cream., fudge, cakes, no priest, most of the food cooked by family members..(there is even a veggie cutting ceremony).and best of all the actual ceremony lasts barely a few minutes. Oh and the elder who conducts the ceremony takes into consideration divorce as well...now that is progressive. Sorta a verbal pre-nup.
26th Feb (Mysore- Kodava/Coorg)
• Attend the wedding. Coorgies are marital folk and the boy's side have to swipe at three plantain stems with a single stroke of the sword to 'take away' the bride.
• Had to skip the lunch (WOE is me) mostly because it is accompanied by booze and we will be driving. Say our fond farewell to our friends, their folks and the pork-mutton-chicken-akki roti buffet.
• The 120 kms drive to Coorg is fabulous - spend some time hunting for the Coffee board plantation in obscure Chettali (20 kms from the capital Medikeri/Mercara and blessed with the most scenic routes in all of Coorg).
• If you know ANYBODY in the government, swing the deal and stay at the coffee board resthouse, it is fab even if the dining room smells of mothballs. We were the only ones there.
27th Feb (Coorg)
• The elephants at Dubare Elephant Training Camp are snoozing in the forest (cannot disturb em). Get duped by the boatman who ferries us across - he had shooed us away from the bridge of rocks that can get us across for no fee.
• While trying to decipher the Kannada roadsigns we stumble onto a lovely Cauvery enclosed island called NISARDHAMA (Hanging Bridge Pic below). Btw it is very very difficult to get grub outside the capital…and were compelled to head to the super snooty ORANGE COUNTY in desperation.
• They charge 8000 bucks for a night’s stay. JEEEEEEEZ - for fake Tudor cottages and a pool (??!!). It looks a bit llike a lego township but it is quaint and the grub decent (Mumbai rates).
28th Feb (Coorg - Mercara)
• The capital Madikeri (or Mercara) is where most tourists go which is why we wisely stayed away.
• The view from Raja’s is stunning, apparently you can see Kerala from there. In the olden days, you could also see mangled bodies – the Raja gave his enemies the ol’ heave-ho routine from here.
• Take a look at the parched Abbey Falls – a windfall for the guy who owns the coffee estate. He charges 20 bucks for parking, the falls are free. Btw in Kodava Abbey means falls so we saw Fall Falls ;P
• There are no tourism offices in Mercara, at least none that we could spot. The Coorg Trail office in Mercara is a treat – they book you into homestays, village stays, organise treks...
• ODing on Coorgi food we settle for Tao’s Chinese which is surprisingly good.
Ist March
• Shift base to Kutta – near the Nagarhole Tiger Sanctury. We are staying at Faith Cinchona Coffee estates, our hosts Maya and Prabhu Utthaya are adorable. Maya is the second woman I have seen in Coorg wearing a sari the Kodava way – mostly for our benefit. We wanted an authentic homestay
22nd Feb (Vizag to Hyd)
• The closer you get to Hyd, the farther away you get acc to the signboards. The irony of it.
• Was floored by the most amazing structure (all bang in the middle of never-ending paddy fields) purportedly schooling India’s future engineers. One was inspired by the Sydney Opera House, I kid you not. The nearest decent theatre is 70 kms away - WOHA, I was never this enthusiastic about an education.
23rd Feb (Vizag to Hyd)
Chilled out with grandparents and forced 'em to consume cheesy pizzas which my grandpa secretly loves though he would never admit it being a staunch (and vocal) sambhar supporter.
24th Feb (Hyd to Mysore)
• Definitely the Reliance Pump stops and their massive A1 eateries. You can bathe there for 15 bucks. Being fairly clean skipped the privilege and stuck to the food - yum and dirt cheap :: HUGE Dosas for 10 bucks!
• NH7 runs through Bangalore, man what a cesspool, spend more than an hour trying to wriggle our way through the largest congestion of dinky cars I have ever seen.
25th Feb (Mysore)
Discover Nalpak and the yummiest coffee we have had so far. Pepe's (that's my friend's sis) authentic Coorgi wedding is mostly underway and OUR CAR is to be the bridal car. Sniff...what an honour. Everyone now knows us as the Vizag folk with 'that' car. The bride looks gorgeous!
HURRAH FOR COORGI WEDDINGS
Coorgi weddings are the way to go - amazing clothes, amazing food and booze unlimited - home made wine, home made Irish cream., fudge, cakes, no priest, most of the food cooked by family members..(there is even a veggie cutting ceremony).and best of all the actual ceremony lasts barely a few minutes. Oh and the elder who conducts the ceremony takes into consideration divorce as well...now that is progressive. Sorta a verbal pre-nup.
26th Feb (Mysore- Kodava/Coorg)
• Attend the wedding. Coorgies are marital folk and the boy's side have to swipe at three plantain stems with a single stroke of the sword to 'take away' the bride.
• Had to skip the lunch (WOE is me) mostly because it is accompanied by booze and we will be driving. Say our fond farewell to our friends, their folks and the pork-mutton-chicken-akki roti buffet.
• The 120 kms drive to Coorg is fabulous - spend some time hunting for the Coffee board plantation in obscure Chettali (20 kms from the capital Medikeri/Mercara and blessed with the most scenic routes in all of Coorg).
• If you know ANYBODY in the government, swing the deal and stay at the coffee board resthouse, it is fab even if the dining room smells of mothballs. We were the only ones there.
27th Feb (Coorg)
• The elephants at Dubare Elephant Training Camp are snoozing in the forest (cannot disturb em). Get duped by the boatman who ferries us across - he had shooed us away from the bridge of rocks that can get us across for no fee.
• While trying to decipher the Kannada roadsigns we stumble onto a lovely Cauvery enclosed island called NISARDHAMA (Hanging Bridge Pic below). Btw it is very very difficult to get grub outside the capital…and were compelled to head to the super snooty ORANGE COUNTY in desperation.
• They charge 8000 bucks for a night’s stay. JEEEEEEEZ - for fake Tudor cottages and a pool (??!!). It looks a bit llike a lego township but it is quaint and the grub decent (Mumbai rates).
28th Feb (Coorg - Mercara)
• The capital Madikeri (or Mercara) is where most tourists go which is why we wisely stayed away.
• The view from Raja’s is stunning, apparently you can see Kerala from there. In the olden days, you could also see mangled bodies – the Raja gave his enemies the ol’ heave-ho routine from here.
• Take a look at the parched Abbey Falls – a windfall for the guy who owns the coffee estate. He charges 20 bucks for parking, the falls are free. Btw in Kodava Abbey means falls so we saw Fall Falls ;P
• There are no tourism offices in Mercara, at least none that we could spot. The Coorg Trail office in Mercara is a treat – they book you into homestays, village stays, organise treks...
• ODing on Coorgi food we settle for Tao’s Chinese which is surprisingly good.
Ist March
• Shift base to Kutta – near the Nagarhole Tiger Sanctury. We are staying at Faith Cinchona Coffee estates, our hosts Maya and Prabhu Utthaya are adorable. Maya is the second woman I have seen in Coorg wearing a sari the Kodava way – mostly for our benefit. We wanted an authentic homestay
posted by Mellowdrama | 3:48 AM
5 Comments:
Would have liked more details of the lunch n the celebration n the dance and the merry- making!
Some quibbles:
Coorg--> Kodagu
a resident of Coorg--> Kodava
And you went to Mercara and didn't eat at East End? (why?)
love coorg..just a 2 hour drive for me from mysore..Guess u should visit wayanad as well..another pristine place..
where are the pics rums. give us some of the glimpses.
without too much melodrama(pun un-intended), who is the first woman you saw in a coorg sari? this note is from Faith Cinchona Estate. the name is Vishal and i am Maya's nephew.
Love Coorg, its a paradise for tourists. This website http://www.coorg.com has gone some great images from coorg.
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